Because I didn't have a clue on this I emailed Ken directly and got a few more details. I should have stated that is provided you have a stand-alone ignition (as is the case on most carbureted engines.) I am saying that with some certainty since I expect that you're going to find both increased performance and economy (which are both generally in short supply in RV's! Update:  Recently, Ian of TurboCamaro.CA created this AMAZING VIDEO of his success setting up the GM Large Cap HEI distributor to do Sniper EFI System ignition control. But that turns your 7AL-3 into a rather expensive version of the HyperSpark ignition. dual-sync. Connect the yellow wire from the 7-pin harness to the tach out and you are done. I wish there was a pattern or specific environment as to when the unit resets, but sometimes it happens immediately and then there’s times where I might drive an hour before I get the dreaded stall. GM Drive-by Wire Throttle Body Control (Terminator X Max Only) GM Transmission Control (Terminator X Max Only) Genuine Bosch LSU 4.9 Wideband Control (Will not work with LSU 4.2 Oxygen Sensors) On-Board Diagnostic LEDS for: ECU Power – Engine Run – Wideband Status – TPS Calibration – Crank Signal – Cam Signal. It's not mandatoryto use the HyperSpark ignition and coil with your HyperSpark distributor. This is a heavy boy (69 Impala) that does not see high RPMs regularly, but does good burn outs when needed. Now, if you are relegated to using the TFI ignition that came with your factory EFI then you still might have a chance of it working, but it might require that you leave your factory ECU in place. It is absolutely the route I'd suggest. I hope that this article has helped to show that, once you understand some of the basics the different ignition configurations for the Holley Terminator and Sniper are not all that complicated. It seems pretty easy since it all connects together with plugs. I am in Australia and want to run a Australian Ford 4.0 Ltr in line 6 cyl that was factory EFI using a TFI . The purpose of this article is to drill down just a little into the igntion wiring for the Holley Terminator and Holley Sniper EFI Systems, comparing these two it a bit more detail than I've seen done elsewhere. Since the ECU cannot sink the high current blasts that would come from the coil on every spark an interface is required.. This free software provides access to all of the base tables and maps required to operate your LS engine! And, at that point, I'd still recommend the Dual-Sync distributor instead. Either your operating environment is simply too noisy for the the magnetic pickup signal to be reliably detected by the Sniper, your crank phasing is not correct, or your rotor phasing is not correct. Made for 24X Crank and 1X Cam the Terminator X kit controls Multec 2 Injectors with four programmable inputs and outputs, including boost and nitrous control. '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP … Note that if you increase the MSV too high then it will have trouble detecting any signal when cranking. This is necessary because if one tried to detail all of the different ways to implement the ignition on a given EFI system it would simply be more confusing than helpful. Good luck! I had not touched, programmed or made any changes what so ever in at least 2-3 weeks. Just don't seem right. On the other hand, if you have any basic distributor-based ignition system that you can use to get the car running then that usually simplifies things a good bit.
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